My monthly wine tasting with local Martinborough wine buffs and winemakers, boosted by a regular contingent of Wellington aficionados, is always an exciting occasion. This month’s tasting – a vertical of the Puriri Hills flagship wine, originally called Reserve, but since 2012, Harmonie du Soir, was surely one of the most awaited.

Vines in Bordeaux’s Pauillac appellation

Last week I published the first part of this account of my short visit to Canada’s Okanagan Valley, where I was hosted by fellow-Kiwi and top viticulturist Pete Wilkins. The day had commenced with a tour of the stunning Mission Hill Estate before opening, after which we proceeded to the opposite side of the lake to the equally stunning and distinctive Martin’s Lane Winery. Here, another Kiwi, Shane Munn, the GM and winemaker, crafts outstanding Rieslings and Pinot Noir wines from grapes grown on four specific Okanagan vineyards in a six-level gravity winery nestled artfully within the striking landscape. Shane commenced his winemaking career with a Bachelor of Wine Science in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay and his winemaking career progressed through Central Otago and Italy’s Barolo before a 6-year stint at renowned biodynamic producer Millton Vineyards in Gisborne. He then spent 3 years at Moutere’s Woollaston Estates known for its gravity fed winery and organic vineyards, before joining Martin’s Lane in 2015.

When I decided to take advantage of relatively competitive fares on Air New Zealand to visit friends in Canada I vaguely recalled from my WSET studies that the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia had some exciting wines. The plane went to Vancouver BC, and my friends were in Calgary, Alberta so I planned a short stop in Kelowna, the entry point and centre of the beautiful Okanagan Lake region. I’d identified a few “must visit”wineries from some quick internet research but things really fell into place when I mentioned my visit to Martinborough winemaker Paul Mason, who quickly put me in touch with Pete Wilkins, a Kiwi viticulturist playing a major role in establishing some of the Okanagan vineyards. The world of wine growing and wine making is incredibly connected and I continue to be thrilled by the exceptional level of cooperation and hospitality demonstrated by these wonderful people. Pete went above and beyond to provide me with a sublime introduction to some wonderful wines and stunning winery visitor complexes.

The following blog summarises my brief introduction to these interesting wines gleaned from a one-day commercial wine tour this week. The Cowichan valley, less than an hour drive from the beautiful city of Victoria enjoys a temperate maritime climate. This, combined with fertile soils formed by Pleistocene glacial advances and retreats, sea level changes and more recent erosional processes, made it ideal for growing a range of fruits and berries, some of which were made into fruit “wine”. The grape wine industry only got underway in the early 90s with pioneers like Vigneti Zanatta and Blue Grouse Estate planting a mix of traditional grape varieties like Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir, and 20th century crosses, notably Ortega and Bacchus, with Ortega becoming one of the signature grapes of the region.

This tasting review explores a selection of premium New Zealand Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from celebrated producers such as Neudorf, Kumeu River, Atarangi, Pegasus Bay, and Elephant Hill. Despite the challenges posed by the 2017 vintage—including unpredictable weather and demanding growing conditions—skilled winemakers demonstrated their expertise, crafting wines that reveal both resilience and artistry. Each wine is described in terms of origin, winemaking technique, and sensory profile, highlighting the diversity and excellence of terroir-driven wines across regions like Moutere, Bannockburn, Martinborough, Waipara, and Kumeu. The summary observes both standout favourites and subtle distinctions among the labels, offering readers a window into New Zealand's evolving fine wine landscape and the triumphs achieved even in tough years.

If Syrah was once a quiet contender on the NZ wine stage, it can now be considered a rising star. Hailed as one of our most exciting red varieties in terms of quality, aging potential and international recognition, Syrah is carving out a distinctive niche, particularly in Hawkes Bay and also on Auckland’s Waiheke Island. Tina Gellie wrote for Decanter in August 2018 that “New Zealand Syrahs are consistently high in quality…capable of offering excellent value compared to the Rhone” with MW Philip Tuck adding “Gimblett Gravels is probably the best site [for Syrah] outside France”.

“I know what I like” is one of the most common refrains from someone reluctant to try an unfamiliar wine. On one level it makes sense – why risk paying for something that might disappoint when familiar favourites are readily available. But on a deeper level it limits our experience and denies us new pleasures. It is not so much that “we know what we like”, rather as my good friend Graeme always says, “we like what we know”.

“In 1995, Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) quietly emerged as the world’s first national sustainability programme for wine”, wrote Emma Jenkins MW for the July 3, 2025 edition of Decanter. From this world first, the New Zealand wine industry has maintained and developed its record of environmental stewardship. SWNZ is an evidence-based, globally recognised benchmark for measurable progress in sustainable viticulture and includes requirements covering people in the industry, soil, greenhouse gas emissions, water and biosecurity. New Zealand remains the only country in the world to have a unified member programme.

I wasn’t always a wine lover. In fact, it was only in my later years that I truly became fascinated by the thrills and mysteries of this wonderful drink. Sadly, the ignition of real passion came too late for me to enjoy the best years for purchasing Bordeaux and Burgundy. Fortunately, sublime as those missed drinking pleasures may be, the world of wine offers endlessly new and exciting discoveries.

I belong to a FB Group called Rhone Wine Lovers. I follow the posts with keen interest, and occasionally even a little jealousy - some members are regularly drinking wines I could at best aspire to only for special occasions – and then, only if I could find them!