wineinsights

Jannine Rickards stands at the leading edge of a powerful shift in New Zealand wine — a movement where Māori values, land-based knowledge, and intergenerational stewardship are shaping some of the country’s most compelling wines. Through her Huntress label, she has become one of the clearest expressions of this growing influence: a winemaker whose work international critics consistently praise for its purity, intuition, and deep cultural grounding. Her wines are often described as carrying both the wildness and wisdom of Aotearoa, guided by principles of kaitiakitanga and a lived relationship with the whenua.

Grey skies over the vineyard reflect grower uncertainty.

Wellington may not be a major international airport — unless you’re flying in from Australia — but it’s an exceptional gateway to one of New Zealand’s most distinctive wine regions. It’s also the jumping‑off point for the Cook Strait ferry to the South Island and a vibrant destination in its own right. If you’re a wine lover spending a day or two in the capital, this guide is for you.

If Ballandean Estate gave me the historical and emotional anchor of the Granite Belt, the region’s Strange Birds concept became my compass for exploring what came next. These emerging and alternative varieties — grapes that make up less than 1% of Australia’s total plantings — are a playful but meaningful expression of the region’s experimental spirit. Yet what struck me during my visit is that this appetite for innovation sits comfortably alongside a strong foundation in the classic international varieties. The Granite Belt produces impressive Chardonnay, Shiraz (or Syrah, as many here prefer), Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon — and, to my surprise, even Pinot Noir thrives in pockets of its high‑altitude, cool‑climate terrain. With this balance of tradition and exploration in mind, I set out to visit four more producers, each offering their own interpretation of what the Granite Belt can be. Together, they reveal a region that honours its past while confidently shaping its future.

The Granite Belt doesn’t reveal itself all at once. The road south from Stanthorpe rises and falls through orchards, granite outcrops, and the kind of cool, high‑country air that feels almost improbable for Queensland. It’s only when you turn into Ballandean Estate — past the weathered sign, the old vines, and the unmistakable sense of continuity — that the region’s story begins to sharpen into focus.This is where Queensland’s modern wine industry truly began. And it’s impossible to walk these grounds without feeling that history under your feet.

I wonder what the day will bring? It’s an ordinary Spring weekend in Martinborough, the sun is shining but there’s a fresh Northwesterly breeze, enough to blow paper menus around, but not enough to deter visitors who want to sit outside. The outside tables have been set in place and sun umbrellas are up. Inside the floors have been vacuumed, fridge and shelves restocked with wine, toilets cleaned, benchtops freshly wiped down (although that was done the evening before on closing anyway), and the hi-tech glass dishwasher that not only washes the wine glasses but polishes them is ready to go.